Bunny care sheets

Rabbits

Rabbits were originally domesticated in Europe during the middle ages. They were raised in colonies and were mistakenly named conies. They were originally raised as livestock for food.





Diet



Rabbits are primarily fed a pelleted diet. Traditionally these pellets are made from pelletized alfalfa or timothy hay. Recent research indicates that these alfalfa based pellets are too high in protein and too low in fiber for adult rabbits. The digestive system of the rabbit includes an organ called the cecum that is located at the origin of the large intestine. The cecum's function is to break down and digest fiber. High protein, low fiber diets can lead to an impacted cecum.



Current wisdom recommends that adult rabbits (over 6-8 months old) be fed a Timothy Hay based diet for its lower protein and higher fiber content. Fresh dark green leafy vegetables like dandelion leaves, romaine lettuce, kale and endive should be given. Small quantities of fresh carrots, apples, banana, papaya, and even raspberries may be used as treats. Timothy Hay should be offered at all times.



It is safe to feed Guinea Pig pellets to rabbits in an emergency, but it is not safe to feed rabbit pellets to Guinea Pigs.



Supplementing their diet with a daily multi-vitamin in their food is recommended



Fresh water should always be available in a water bottle.



Housing



Rabbits can be kept in cages indoors, or in hutches outdoors in moderate climates. If the cage or hutch has a wire bottom there should be a solid floor in part of the cage so that the animal isn't constantly standing on wire.



A layer of bedding material should cover the bottom of the cage. A hiding space is also recommended.



Handling & Care



Rabbits are quiet gentle animals that require very little care. If handled when they are young, they remain tame and docile with regular handling.



Slide your hand under the rabbit's chest and gently lift while supporting the hind end with the other hand.



Traditionally pine shavings have been used as bedding material for these animals, but recent studies indicate that the phenols (aroma) in pine may be too strong for animals kept in closed environments without adequate air circulation. For animals in such habitats, Aspen bedding is a safe and practical alternative. Never use cedar shavings for Rabbits, as the phenols are very strong and cause serious respiratory, skin, coat and liver problems.



Rabbit Care Sheet

For more info on bunny care, go to www.rabbit.org

For info on local veterinarians, go to our Local Vet Guide.

Why a Rabbit? | Neuter Your Rabbit! | Litterbox Training | Handling | Diet | Bunny Housing | Bunny-proofing Your House | Exercise and Socialization | Dogs and Cats | Vet Care / Medical Emergencies | Grooming | Shopping List for Your Bunny | References

Why a Rabbit?

Rabbits make great pets! They are sensitive, intelligent and friendly. They are quiet, clean and can be trained to use a litterbox. With some safety precautions (bunny proofing), they can make wonderful house pets.

Neuter Your Rabbit!

Neutering not only prevents unwanted pregnancies, it lengthens your pet's lifespan, it makes litterbox training easier, and may reduce chewing and territorial behavior.

For low cost spay/neuter referral, please talk with a rabbit volunteer, or go to www.rabbit.org or www.bunnybunch.org.

Litterbox Training

Most rabbits can be litter trained and allowed supervised freedom in the house. Since a bunny usually urinates in one comer of his pen, this is where you place the litterbox. Once the bunny uses the box reliably, you can let him out into a larger area, putting out a second box.

Handling

Handle with care! Rabbits have fragile skeletons and can be seriously injured if dropped or allowed to fall. When picked up, a scared rabbit may kick out with his hind feet, breaking his back. A child struggling to hold a wiggly bunny could be scratched and the rabbit injured. For this reason, children should always be supervised with rabbits. NEVER pick up a rabbit by the ears. This is very painful and can cause permanent injury. To pick up a rabbit correctly, place one hand under the rabbit behind the front logs and the other hand under the bunny's haunches. Hug the rabbit against your body firmly but gently. You support a rabbit something like you would hold a football!

Diet

Your rabbit's diet should include hay (timothy or oat for adults; alfalfa hay for babies or malnourished rabbits), commercial rabbit pellets and fresh, clean vegetables and greens. Romaine lettuce, carrot tops, dandelions, parsley, radish leaves, broccoli leaves, cilantro and kale are all good. Treats include small slices of apple, pear or other fruit or pieces of carrot. Avoid commercial feeds that contain seeds and nuts. Do not feed human treats like crackers and cookies. Fresh water should be available at all times in a bowl or a water bottle. Please note: Rabbit digestion is very sensitive, so you must introduce new foods gradually. Young rabbits age 3 months and under should only be fed hay, rabbit pellets, and water, NO FRUIT. See our diet sheet for more information.

Bunny Housing

Rabbits do not tolerate heat, dampness, or drafts. Your rabbit should be in a quiet, safe location close enough to human activity so he doesn't become lonely. If you're away all day at work, consider getting your rabbit a bunny friend for companionship. Neutered bunnies of opposite sexes generally get along best. NEVER PUT UNNEUTERED RABBITS TOGETHER. Adult males will fight; adult females will fight; one of each will lead to an unwanted pregnancy. Neutered littermates often stay friends.

Indoor Housing
Secure puppy pens 30-36” tall are best for indoor "starter" housing. If bunny jumps the pen, you can clip a sheet over the pen for a couple of weeks until she establishes boundaries. You can put linoleum or chair mats over your carpet or flooring during “potty training.” If you must cage your bunny, the cage should measure a minimum of 2’ x 4’ per rabbit, and the rabbit should get daily exercise time. The cage must allow adequate ventilation (no aquariums!). Rabbits need a partial solid floor (cardboard, a board, even newspaper) to got off the wire and avoid foot sores. They should have a nest box or "hidey hole" for hiding. The pen or cage must be kept clean; white vinegar does wonders at neutralizing odors and dissolving urine buildup. The bunny will also require a water crock or bottle, heavy food crock, and a litterbox in his pen.

Outdoor Housing
... is NOT recommended. Rabbits are prone to heat stroke and can be killed by raccoons, hawks, owls, dogs, feral cats, fly strike and other predators. Rabbits are great escape artists, and those who get out likely won't survive. They can burrow out under backyard fences or squeeze out of very small openings, never to be seen again. If your rabbit must live outdoors in a hutch or condo be sure he is off the ground, sheltered, and in the shade. He should have hay or other bedding. Hutches should be a minimum of 2’ x 4’ per rabbit, and securely fastened at the door and roof. See our handout on why rabbits should live indoors and what to do to protect bunnies outside.

Bunny-proofing Your House

Rabbits' teeth grow throughout their lives so it is no surprise that many chew. They should be given such chew toys as cardboard boxes, toilet paper rolls, and apple twigs. For your home, bunnyproofing is the name of the game. Put phone and electric cords where bunnies cannot reach them. Exposed cords must be wrapped in plastic tubing (consult a hardware store). Don't let rabbits chew rugs; they can ingest fibers and die. Keep your bunny away from houseplants - they can be poisonous. A pile of hay placed in a cardboard box is a great playhouse for your rabbit. The good news: Once your bunny is past adolescence, like most teenagers, he will calm down!

Exercise and Socialization

Rabbits need several hours out of the pen or cage each day to socialize with people and to exercise. This can be in a room in the house. Many rabbit owners eventually give their rabbits the run of the place when their pets are litter-trained and their home is bunny-proofed. Do not let a new rabbit roam unsupervised. Some rabbits love to be picked up and held, others will prefer you meet them at their level and pet them on the floor. Never chase a rabbit, use force or yell - that will only teach the bunny to fear you. Remember that rabbits are prey animals and they have to be reassured that you won’t hurt them. You have to be sensitive and gentle with a rabbit.

Dogs and Cats

Never expect a dog, cat or other animal to behave around a rabbit. Sometimes they become best friends! But always carefully supervise and protect your rabbit from other animals.

Vet Care / Medical Emergencies

Rush your rabbit to the vet if you see: A lack of appetite; diarrhea; few if any droppings; listlessness; foul-smelling or crusty ears; overgrown teeth, mucus around the eyes or nose; urine-soaked fur, straining to urinate; lump or swellings; headtilt; or any sudden behavior change. See a rabbit volunteer or go to www.rabbit.org or www.bunnybunch.org for a veterinary referral.

Grooming

Trim rabbit nails once every other month. Comb (a flea comb works well) your bunny gently about once a week - more if he is shedding (to prevent furballs).

If your bunny gets fleas, the best way to control fleas is to carefully groom with a flea comb, dipping it in soapy water as needed. Kitten flea powder can also be used on bunnies over 8 weeks old. NEVER use a flea dip or a flea collar - these are toxic to rabbits. Advantage has been used on rabbits with some success; please follow directions and keep bunnies separate until completely absorbed. Keep bunny away from pets that go outdoors to prevent flea infestation.

Rabbits are clean animals and should generally not be bathed. Rough fur, "dandruff," or loss of fur can mean fur mites or ringworm - see your vet.

Shopping List for your Bunny

Exercise pen, baby gate, or other housing
Hard plastic carrier for emergencies, trips to the vet
Hay, pellets, veggies
Heavy food and water dishes
White vinegar
Hand broom and dustpan; dust vacuum